NDIB vaccination

Salam,

As years passed by,so did my experiances with my gamefowls.I will be covering some vaccination program that I administrated last few days.

I do some reading on the web to find the possible problems that occurs on my backyards.My finding was, most of my bird having a minor respiratory problem and a fowl pox.The clinical signs are the same as prescribe on my reading.

To counter this,I buy vaccines from local poultry store and administrate it myself.

Newcastle-Infectious Bronchitis vaccine

Mixing the dry tablet with sterile diluent.

Administrate thru nose

Some note in adminstrating vaccine

Poultry vaccines are biological products that induce an immune response to the specific
disease causing agents. Depending on the vaccine, they can be administered in various
ways, all of which are discussed in this manual.
Depending on the type of antigen in the vaccine, the birds’ immune system will react,
creating a “memory” response of antibodies and immune cells. The more a bird is exposed
to the same antigen, the greater the antibody response and resulting protection. This is the
reason many flocks are vaccinated multiple times for the same disease – to maximize the
immune system’s response.

Vaccines for poultry come in three general forms: Modified or Attenuated (Live), Inactivated (Killed), and Recombinants. Live vaccines are strains that are naturally or genetically modified milder forms of field strains. Inactivated vaccines are whole viruses or bacteria that have been inactivated during production and formulated into an injectable form. Recombinant vaccines are made by using live virus or bacteria as a vector to transport the gene coding for the protective antigen of a second infectious agent for which immunity is desired.

For all vaccines:
Vaccine should arrive with cool packs in a well-insulated box
If vaccine arrives hot, call manufacturer or distributor.
Storage temperature = 35-45º F (2-8º C).
Avoid freezing, extreme heating and intense light.

For Live Vaccines:
Transport to farm in cooler with ice packs to keep temperature constant.
Mix with diluent (reconstitute) just before application.

For Inactivated Vaccines:
Remove 24 hours prior to vaccinating so that the product can warm to room temperature.
Also, can use warm water bath–do not exceed 100º F for more than 5 hours .
Do not leave bottles in direct sunlight during transport to farm.
Gently agitate bottles thoroughly prior to use.

NDIB vaccine administration

The vaccination will only be considered successful if the drop (0.03 ml) is placed into
the eye or nasal cavity and absorbed. For this to occur, it is important to wait a few
seconds after administering the drop, before releasing the bird.

If the drop is not totally absorbed, a new drop should be administered.

To prevent the contents of the vaccine vial from getting warm against the hands of
the vaccinator, divide the contents of the reconstituted vaccine into two or three
empty vials, and alternate their use while keeping the others in a cooler with ice.

Excerption from Vaccination Procedure Guide Cobb-vantress

Chicken Scratch, LLC
Cobb Europe Ltd
Cobb-Vantress Brasil. Ltda.
Embrex, Inc
IDEXX Laboratories
Klaus Muller-Molenar
Merial
Proavica
Intervet/Schering Plough Animal Health
Tyson Foods, Inc
Tierarztpraxis MMT-Germany

Hopefully you guys out there can try to impliment solid vaccination to improve our beloved gamefowl for a better living.

2012 breeding and tips on brooding chicks

Salam to my beloved readers.
My two hens which both white legged red gamefowl,hatched some eggs this week.
The eggs were from my various hens and pullets since these two were setting
first on the nests,so they have the responsiblity to hatch them.

My oldest hens.Stags produce from her were outstanding.Zero lost.

Sister to my winning stags.Winning line.

I am very happy with chicks,since they dont deformed like crooked leg especially.
These are some of the advantages of having hen hatched chicks,as per my observation,
aside more robust from colds and fever within their growing stages when
compared to artificial incubation.Of course you can have the capability to hatch more
eggs whenever you want it to,with incubator.Well,I do not emphasize on quantity tho,
but more on sustaining the health of the chickens apparently.

New chicks hatched by hens above.The hens set 20 eggs each.So far,nearly half hatched.

The earlier chick.6 hatched but only 4 survived.The other two just too weak.

These chicks will stay inside in house brooder for at least 2 months of their first life.Brooding
in house is the only choice that I have since the temperature fluctuations,
high tides and raining seasons.Within these period,I will start my vaccination program
which consist of 3 type of vaccines.These are fowl pox,Newcastle Disease and Infectious
Bronchitis.They also having medication which is Duoko(against coryza
and coccidiosis) for the first week thru their water.And some important point is to maintain
the surrounding temp.Try your best to make them warm,maybe close to their incubation
temperature.I use a normal single bulb @ 25watts for a 1 1/2 feet X 2 feet brooder
and place indoor with a normal room temperature of 27C.

MyVAC 201(newcastle + IB vaccine) and Fowl pox FP

The best ways to treat them is by allocating maximum numbers of chicks in particular size of
brooder.A 2 X 1 1/2 feet brooder size will be able to house a maximum of 5 chicks as I
experianced.The more chicks in cramp size brooder will invite canabalism,boredom
(maybe,I can not talk to my chicks) and led to malnutrition and lastly death.

I always try to keep the brooder clean and away from mosquitoes and domestic flies.

Very active indeed.

Hopefully,the two hens will be setting for another 2 weeks(hopefully) to hatch all the eggs.
A long setted hens can cause trouble to egg since the hens are afraid to go out for
poops and eat/drink,they tend to poop in the nest.

Until next post.